PI: Chris Wingfield | Co-Investigators: Prof. Maitseo Bolaane (University of Botswana San Research Centre), Leema Anthony Hiri (University of Botswana San Research Centre), Gréine Jordan (University of East Anglia) | Research Coordinators: Scobie Lekhutile (Serowe), Nichodimas Cooper (Lokgwabe), Mmamaswe Kikonyane (Ncaang), Tshisimogo Leepang (Kaudwane) | Leather workers – Knowledge Holders: Kabo Jone (Serowe), Georginah Kabe (Lokgwabe), Kgothinyane Kikonyane and Madietsane Kikonyane (Ncaang), Gouta Molathiwa and Kaorontshwa Thuntshwane (Kaudwane)
Project ID: 2020SG12 | Location of Research: Botswana | Host Institution: University of East Anglia, University of Botswana
Residents of the Kalahari in Botswana categorise leather production methods in two main ways, setswana and sekgoa. The former uses locally available plant resources and brain tanning to process hides, while the latter relies on industrially produced chemical tanning agents. Setswana tanning has roots in the distant past, but a number of contemporary threats have contributed to its decline. More prosperous communities in Eastern Botswana have largely abandoned this intensive and time consuming craft, while restrictions on the use of wild species among Western communities make the recruitment and training of future practitioners difficult.
The project documents setswana leather production at four locations across the Kalahari basin:
- Serowe, Central District – a larger Tswana village with a population of 52,831 according to the 2011 Botswana Census. Serowe has been the capital of the Bamangwato chieftaincy since its establishment in 1903.
- Lokgwabe, Kgalagadi District – a mid-size settlement with a population of 1,417 according to the 2011 Botswana census. Dominated by Sekgalagadi speakers, it includes a Nama Ward, where descendants of a group of Nama refugees settled under the leadership of Chief Simon Kuper, following their persecution in what is now Namibia between 1904 and 1907. Nama descendants comprised the focus at this location.
- Ncaang, Kgalagadi District – a remote settlement with a population of 228, according to the 2011 Botswana census. The population is largely of mixed ancestry with both Sekgalagadi and ǃXóõ widely spoken.
- Kaudwane, Kweneng District – a remote settlement with a population of 551, according to the 2011 Botswana census. Kaudwane was established as a relocation camp at the edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve during the late 1990s. The majority of the population speak G//ana, G|ui or Tsila, related languages of the Central Kalahari.
Methodology
Leather workers at each location selected and created one or more leather products to demonstrate the complete process of manufacture in a week or less. These included a leather mat (phate) at Serowe; a leather bag for storing tea at Lokgwabe; male and female dancing attire, a small bag, and a hunting set at Ncaang; and a hunting set and leather wrapper (tšhatšhana) at Kaudwane.
Given the unusual and compressed timescale, subjects were compensated with a ‘hosting fee’ to cover food and supplies during the documentation period. Filming and photography was conducting using a Panasonic Lumix GH5 camera outfitted with a tripod and zoom lens. The Kalahari’s high light levels often necessitated the use of ND filters to control exposure. At times, researchers concurrently recorded audio using an external microphone.
The data is organized according to a series of six process diagrams detailed in the Guide to the Dataset and available in the below assets. These are organized by the object created and sub-sectioned according to location, tools, and process phase.
Leather mat (phate) — Serowe
Leather wrapper (tšhatšhana) — Kaudwane
Leather products — Ncaang
Tea container (Tē ||garub) — Lokgwabe
Hunting bag (kjòm) — Kaudwane
Other products — Ncaang
Selected assets from each location
Serowe
Drying the skin
Unearthing and stretching the mat
Ncaang
Stringing a bow
Piercing ostrich eggshell beads
Lokgwabe
Drying the skin after dyeing
Patching the skin
Kaudwane
Slaughter
Scraping the skin
Acknowledgements
Everyone involved with the project is immensely grateful to Gréine Jordan. She joined during her PhD, to undertake a placement, but become so indispensable that she ended up doing an enormous amount of the heavy lifting in relation to the filming, photography, image and data processing. Completing the project without her quickly became inconceivable.
This project is indebted to support from the University of East Anglia, the University of Botswana, and the project researcher coordinators Scobie Lekhutile, Nichodimas Cooper, Mmamaswe Kikonyane, and Tshisimogo Leepang. Moreover, it would not have been possible without the dedication of leather workers Kabo Jone, Georginah Kabe, Gouta Molathiwa, Kaorontshwa Thuntshwane, Kgothinyane Kikonyane, Madietsane Kikonyane, assistants Maipelo Xomte and Donald Mabolelo, and members of their extended families.
The products made during the project were purchased from their makers and presented to the National Museum of Botswana in July 2023.