Documenting endangered knowledge of making Chitrali shu (handwoven woollen cloth) in Chitral, Northwest Pakistan

PI: Adil Iqbal | Collaborators: Mansura Shams, Feroza Gulzar, and Arshad Irfan
Project ID: 2022LG02 | Location of Research: Chitral District, Pakistan
Host Institution: National Museums Scotland

This collection documents the endangered wool-working tradition of Shu making in Chitral, Northwest Pakistan. Shu is a handwoven woollen cloth central to local dress, trade, and identity.

The mountainous region of Chitral connects Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Xinjiang in Northwest China. A famous product, shu has been traded across borders, emphasising that what we often consider remote areas are distinct economic and cultural centres. The knowledge and skills of making this climate-adapted and windproof textile is a renowned heritage of the people of Chitral. Continued efforts to save this craft practice have to date been unsuccessful. The making of shu and the related knowledge, skills and social rituals are endangered not only due to changes in the climate but also an ageing population in the villages and the lack of interest in craft skills from younger generations.

The dataset follows the complete journey from raw fleece to finished cloth, situating each technical stage within the social, ecological, and cultural worlds that sustain it. It is intended as a long-term resource for researchers, educators, museum professionals, and community members interested in textile heritage, craft ecologies, and mountain lifeworlds in the Hindukush region. A short film, Shu Korik, compiles sound and imagery from the collection into a poetic reflection on the process.
 

Methodology

This project has generated over 21 hours of raw video footage, 400+ photographs, and 50+ audiovisual  interviews. The dataset presents a detailed, process-based documentation of the endangered wool-working tradition of Shu making in Chitral, Northwest Pakistan. It captures the step-by-step transformation of raw fleece into handwoven wool fabric, alongside the social, ecological, and cultural contexts surrounding the craft.

The dataset is organised to reflect the full chronology of Shu production, with each asset labelled using a consistent identifier for clarity and accessibility. Core documentation begins with Grazing (G01), showing sheep breeds and grazing methods, followed by Washing (W02), which captures the cleansing of sheep in mountain streams. Shearing (S03) demonstrates traditional wool harvesting techniques, while Dyeing (D04) explores both natural and synthetic coloration methods. Pre-carding (P05), Carding (C06), and Teasing (T07) document stages of wool preparation, leading into Spinning (S08) with Spinning wheel. The weaving sequence continues with Warping (2022LG02-W09) and Weaving (W10), showcasing loom set-up and fabric construction. Felting (F11) records the distinctive use of Garam Chashma’s mineral hot springs, and Drying (D12) completes the process with sun-curing of the finished fabric.

To complement this technical chronology, the dataset includes supporting documentation: Tools (T13) highlights the implements used across all stages; Artisan Community (A14) presents profiles and socio-cultural backgrounds of participating makers; and Landscape (L15) captures the ecological and geographical setting of wool production. Shu (S16) contains footage and contextual information about the final woven fabric. Ethnographic and sensory materials are housed in Interviews (I17), Audio (2022LG02-A18), featuring oral narratives, Text (T19), field notes. Together, this comprehensive asset structure enables users to explore both the tangible practices and intangible heritage of Shu-making in depth.

Selected Assets

The following assets provide an overview of the project’s themes and documentation.

Acknowledgements

The research would not have been possible without its team:

• Feroza Gulzar (videographer) — led visual documentation, backup, and file review; supported editing and post-production
• Arshad Irfan (research assistant / linguist / translator) — led transcription, translation, and annotation of Khowar and Urdu materials; liaised with local communities, facilitated interviews, and shaped field strategies
• Ahsan Abdullah (videographer) — led visual documentation, backup, and file review; supported editing and post-production for final fieldwork
• Mansura Shams (research assistant) — liaised with local communities, facilitated interviews

The project team extends its deepest gratitude to the Shu weavers, felters, dyers, spinners, shepherds, and traders in Garam Chashma valley and surrounding villages who generously shared their time, homes, and knowledge. Thanks are also owed to local community hosts, drivers, and fixers who made fieldwork possible.